Dog Muzzles: When, Why, and How to Correctly Use Them

The idea of putting a muzzle on your dog can be unsettling. You might wonder if your pet can drink, pant, or even breathe while wearing a dog muzzle. Is a dog muzzle painful or cruel? Perhaps you feel a muzzle is the best option for your dog’s situation, but how do you decide? There are certain situations where a muzzle can be very useful, and at times dog muzzles are even necessary, but there are other scenarios when a dog muzzle is definitely the wrong choice. How do you know when a dog muzzle is helpful? What type of dog muzzle is the correct choice for your dog? There are so many questions around this emotionally charged topic. Learn about the when, why, and how of using a dog muzzle, and always consult a professional dog trainer for advice on your dog’s individual situation.

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Why Are Dog Muzzles So Polarizing?

Dog muzzles can look controversial. After all, they have an unfair association with “aggressive” dogs or “attack” dogs. But most canine experts agree that at one point or another in every dog’s lifetime, there may be a situation when an owner needs to use a muzzle. It might be for the safety of the dog, the safety of a person, or both.

For example, if your dog is seriously injured, the risk of a dog bite jumps significantly. While in severe pain, dogs can bite when you try to transport them or treat their wounds. And there’s no way to predict when such a situation might arise. Therefore, even if you never have to rely on a dog muzzle, it’s a good idea to understand why, when, and how you should use a muzzle on your dog. You also need to teach and train your dog how to tolerate and accept wearing a muzzle. Every dog should learn to love wearing a muzzle so if the day comes when they need to wear one, you and your dog won’t be stressed even further.

When Is it Appropriate to Use a Dog Muzzle?

Here are some situations that make the use of a dog muzzle safe and appropriate.

During an Emergency

As mentioned before, an injured or frightened dog is much more likely to bite. Particularly if you need to move or treat the dog in some way. Using a muzzle will keep you and anyone assisting you safe from your dog’s uncharacteristic but understandable behavior.

When There’s a History of or Risk of Biting

If your dog is aggressive and/or has bitten another dog or a person in the past, a muzzle can be used for safety. Even if your dog has no bite history, if you think the risk of a dog bite exists—for example, your dog lunges and barks at other dogs or people—a muzzle can provide additional peace of mind. However, the muzzle doesn’t solve the problem, it simply helps keeps everybody safe while you work on behavior modification with an animal behaviorist, veterinarian, and/or dog trainer. Your goal should be to change your dog’s behavior and mindset. The muzzle is simply a temporary tool to help you achieve that goal.

When There’s a Risk of Biting Due to a Threatening Situation

There may be specific situations that upset or stress your dog, such as examinations at the veterinarian. When you’re worried your dog may bite, the temporary use of a muzzle should be considered. But that’s also a sign that behavior modification is in order for a long-term resolution.

During Grooming Sessions

When properly desensitized with handling exercises (it helps to start in puppyhood), most dogs will tolerate or even enjoy grooming procedures like bathing or nail trimming. However, if you’re still training your dog to get used to grooming, a muzzle may helpful, especially when the dog is not familiar with the groomer.

When Required, Due to Breed-Specific Legislation

Unfortunately, some states or provinces have breed specific legislation (BSL), which requires certain so-called “dangerous breeds” to wear a muzzle when not on private property. (Read about the AKC’s position on BSL and what we’re doing to offer alternatives.)

When Should You Not Use a Muzzle?

It seems obvious, but muzzles are used to prevent dog bites. They are not for preventing problem behaviors by forcing your dog’s mouth closed. Do not use a dog muzzle for barking, chewing, or other ongoing behavioral problems. There are two important reasons for this.

1. A muzzle is only meant to be used for short periods of time, and only when your dog is supervised.
2. Behavioral problems like barking and chewing are, by their nature, ongoing issues, so a muzzle, a tool meant for temporary and short-term use, is not a solution.

If you want to see progress with these types of behaviors, you need to use consistent training and behavior modification instead. For example, if your dog is constantly barking, there is a reason for it such as separation anxiety, boredom, sounding the alarm, territorial barking, or attention-seeking. First determine the cause then address it, with the help of a professional if necessary.

Also, never use a muzzle to put your dog in an unnecessarily stressful situation. For example, if your dog can’t handle the dog park, but your friends are all taking their dogs, a muzzle isn’t an appropriate way for your dog to join the group. If you know something upsets your dog, work to change that reaction, don’t muzzle your dog to get through the event. In fact, that can even make the situation worse. Your dog will associate the stressful situation with the muzzle, adding more fear and anxiety the next time around.

The same goes for punishment. Never muzzle your dog to teach a lesson. You will do nothing to fix the underlying problem, and once again, your dog will learn to associate the muzzle with the punishment. Now when you try to muzzle your dog in a legitimate situation like an emergency, your dog will be even more scared and nervous.

What Are the Different Types of Muzzles?

There are two main types of muzzles and by making sure you get the right style and fit, you will ensure safe and effective use. You can also make a homemade muzzle in an emergency if there is no other choice. Here are some options.

Basket Muzzle

Basket muzzles look exactly like they sound, a basket strapped to your dog’s nose and mouth. They can be made of leather, wire, plastic, or even rubber, and can be bought off the rack or made to fit your dog’s exact anatomy. Their “prison bars” appearance may look like the least humane choice, but the opposite is true. In fact, many dogs seem more comfortable in basket muzzles than soft muzzles because their mouth isn’t being held closed. Most styles allow dogs to open their mouths to pant, drink, and eat. Some even have slits along the side so you can slip larger treats like sliced hot dogs through the bars for training purposes.

Soft Muzzle

Usually made from fabric such as nylon or mesh, or sometimes leather, soft muzzles wrap around your dog’s mouth and hold it closed. That design is actually less comfortable for your dog than a basket muzzle and potentially more dangerous. Soft muzzles prevent your dog from panting, which is the only way he has of dispersing heat. Panting is the canine version of sweating so these muzzles should only be used for very short periods of time and never in hot weather. These muzzles also prevent your dog from barking, drinking, or eating. And if your dog can’t eat, it’s almost impossible to use treats as a reward during a behavioral modification program or when you’re training your dog to love the muzzle. You will have to rely on items like squeeze cheese that your dog doesn’t have to chew.

Homemade Muzzle

When there are no other options available, but you need to muzzle your dog, such as in an emergency or when your dog has been injured, you can make a muzzle from items you have at hand. This is only recommended when you have no other choice, and your homemade muzzle should only be used temporarily. You can find instructions online for improvising a homemade dog muzzle with a roll of gauze, a pair of pantyhose, or even your dog’s leash, but using materials such as these isn’t ideal. A better option is to keep a proper muzzle in your canine first aid kit.

How Do You Train a Dog to Accept a Muzzle?

The first time you put a muzzle on your dog should not be the first time you need to put one on. If your dog’s first introduction to wearing a muzzle happens when he is hurt or terrified, it will be much more difficult to get the muzzle on. And nearly impossible to use the muzzle in the future as your dog will have learned to associate the muzzle with the stressful circumstances. Luckily, a dog can be trained to accept a muzzle if he’s introduced to it under low-stress conditions, with a step-by-step process, and with appropriate rewards.

Beth Nash, AKC Gazette breed columnist for the Vizsla Club of America, has this to say about muzzles, and how she trained her first Vizsla, Bartok, to wear one:

“Bartok was terrified of the vet clinic due to a combination of unstable temperament and a series of unfortunate incidents. We needed to muzzle him for everyone’s safety. The clinic staff did their best to be gentle and patient, but Bart was seriously stressing out, and we needed to help him.

Over a period of several days, here’s what we did—using small, soft treats, and making sure he was comfortable with each step before going on to the next.

1. Let him sniff the muzzle. Give a treat. Repeat a few times.
2. Touch his nose with the muzzle. Treat. Repeat until he indicates that the muzzle looks interesting in a good way.
3. Hold the muzzle with one hand and a treat with the other hand, so he needs to put his nose inside the muzzle to get the treat. Repeat until this step is no big deal.
4. Gently slip the muzzle onto his nose and give him a treat. Remove the muzzle immediately. Repeat a few times.
5. Put on the muzzle and fasten the buckle. Treat. Remove immediately. Repeat a few times.
6. Put on the muzzle, fasten it, and count slowly to five. Treat. Remove the muzzle.
7. Each time you put on the muzzle, gradually increase the time the muzzle is on. Hold his collar and give treats.

If we had introduced the muzzle before Bart associated it with scary things, we probably could have gone through these steps in less than a day—possibly a matter of minutes. We’ve done this with each successive dog, including rescue dogs we’ve fostered. If the dog isn’t interested in treats, you can substitute other rewards. I use verbal praise, but this is optional.”

The late Dr. Sophia Yin’s website has a terrific step-by-step guide for training your dog to wear a muzzle. And the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has a video showing a dog being introduced to a muzzle for the first time.

How Do You Properly Fit a Muzzle?

The right fit is key to using a muzzle correctly. Too loose and your dog will be able to remove it; too tight and it will inhibit his ability to breathe, pant, or drink and can cause painful chafing. Straps should be fitted so you can just fit one finger between your dog’s head and the strap. It’s best to try on various sizes and get input from a knowledgeable professional trainer or experienced muzzle user. You should also take measurements, especially when ordering online. Even flat faced-dogs like Pugs can wear a muzzle, although a custom-fitted option may be the best solution. A few common styles are included below, but there are other types that are particularly suited for dogs who are known bite risks, or dogs with different face shapes.

  Berner pups 8 weeks to a year

This article was written by Ann Milligan in early . Information contained herein is a reflection of Mark and Ann Milligan's experiences as breeders and owners of 5 generations of Bernese Mountain Dogs since . We hope you find it helpful and informative. Please seek your dog breeder's council in matters pertaining to management of your dog.

Time for placement

Most Bernese breeders place their puppies between 8-10 weeks of age. By that age puppies have been weaned by their dam and have been eating solid food for some time. Puppies that come from conscientious breeders are clean and have been exposed to a wide variety of sites, sounds and experiences both as a part of their litter and as individuals.  Most breeders will have given at least one or two series of core vaccines designed to safeguard pups from distemper and parvo virus which are life threatening diseases. Most breeders will have checked to be sure intestinal parasites are not present. Pups should have been seen by the breeder's vet prior to placement to ensure heart function ,general health and physical condition are good.

Fear period concerns

Puppy buyers should know all puppies experience a "fear period' during their early development which generally occurs sometime between 6-10 weeks. The age at which a breeder chooses to place a pup can depend on working around the few days when the pup is experiencing a fear period. It is not advisable to cause unnecessary upheaval or upset to a pup during the 'fear period'.

Pups are individuals

Conscientious breeders are observing pups from the day they are born. So a breeder who is paying close attention to their puppies will have a very clear picture of how each pup is developing through the first weeks of life. Early observations offer breeders clues as to a pup's overall vigor. Observing a pup's reactions to people and to different situations and experiences allows breeders to assess puppies' personality traits and their physical attributes. A breeder's observations will allow them to make the best possible match between puppies and owners. Berner pups are slow to mature . Often even the most experienced breeders are not able to evaluate structure and temperament in Bernese puppies prior to 7-10 weeks of age.

How pups are raised can affect your experience with your dog

Early interactions between littermates and between pups and their dam will serve as a foundation for how dogs will relate to other dogs throughout life . By the time pups have reached 7-10 weeks they will have had an adequate amount of time to learn many dog relationship skills. Puppies placed very young, under 7 weeks of age , may have difficulty relating well with other dogs. Puppies should have clean quarters while they are babies.  Please be aware that if you accept a puppy from a breeder who raises litters in dirty conditions that you will probably have a more difficult time with housebreaking.  Unsocialized, unhandled pups will not be well accustomed to relating to life's changes or interacting with people which can make a dog more difficult to train, especially for novice dog owners. Also management challenges, such as fearfulness or lack of confidence can be seen in pups that have not been offered lots of human contact and many varied experiences early in their lives.  

So what is it that we look for in Bernese Mountain Dog puppies?

We start with these criteria: an outgoing or accepting attitude , a calm easy going demeanor, a full body with a broad flat back and level topline, nice proportions and adequate heaviness of bone in the legs , a pleasant head with broad back skull, good scissors bite and good detail in ear placement (not low like a hound dog) tight medium brown eyes and not too droopy or loose skin around the mouth with tight fitting lips.  A good balance in gait that shows the puppy is capable of sustaining a slow trot is an excellent indicator that a puppy's structure will be adequate .  Pups usually possess some ideal characteristics , but not every pup will possess every ideal characteristic.  No puppy is perfect! We try to recognize all the positives and negatives each individual puppy has when we are evaluating a litter.

One of the most important concerns in management of puppies is controlling interaction with adult dogs.

NO PUPPY SHOULD EVER BE PERMITTED TO ROUGHHOUSE WITH ADULT, larger or more physically adept DOGS!!!!! Young dogs can and will overexert themselves in play. Slamming, racing around and wrestling can cause serious and even lasting injury to muscles and ligaments in growing pups.

All play periods or exercise should be monitored by a responsible adult to avoid injuries to tender puppies. 

Nature and nurture

Bernese are usually incredibly cute , fluffy, vivacious puppies. And every puppy is unique. There are variations in the physical and mental qualities each individual puppy has inherited from its sire and dam that will influence the pup's capacity to perform in different kinds of situations. Combine inborn differences in puppies with:

1- variations in how different owners relate to their dogs and different owner's lifestyles  which will effect

   what type of relationship an owner wants to have with their dog

   how much time and energy an owner is able and willing to commit to a relationship with their dog

2- an owner's experience and focus in training which will affect:

   an owner's capability to get and hold a dog's attention

   an owner's knowledge of different ways to motivate a dog to perform as desired

   an owner's ability to recognize and handle problem behaviors

   an owner's recognition and acceptance of a particular dog's natural aptitudes

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It is up to a breeder to do their best to produce healthy sound pups and place them with people who are willing to provide a stable lifelong home. Ultimately it is up to the owner to develop their dog's potential and mold behavior.

Given the uniqueness of families of dogs, individual dogs and owners it should be quite evident there will be considerable variation in how dogs will look, in dogs' structures, in their physical fitness, their intelligence, in what makes individual dogs tick, and in how dogs will act and behave based on owner management and lifestyle choices.

These benchmarks allow those who have never had a large breed dog or a Bernese to better understand what to expect as Berners grow. Remember- these observations are broad generalizations and should not be taken as absolutes. Not every Bernese pup matures physically or mentally at the same rate. The growth pattern of a Bernese may come as quite a surprise to anyone not familiar with how members of this breed may look or act at various stages during puppyhood and adolescence.

At 8-10 weeks

Typical Bernese pups weigh from 12-24 pounds at 8-10 weeks. Puppy weight at this young age is sometimes a refection of litter size, with large litters tending to have smaller puppies and litters with fewer members having larger sized pups . Sometimes puppy weight is a reflection of the size pups a particular dam or pair is apt to produce. Relative size of a puppy or litter may or may not carry through to adulthood. Genetics will play the most significant role in the eventual size any dog will attain at maturity provided the dog receives adequate nutrition and conditioning during development. Typically puppies will gain somewhere between 2-4 pounds a week during the first few months.

The ideal weight of any given dog should depend on how large a frame and how much bone and muscle he or she has. Feeding more food to a pup to accelerate growth is NOT advised. Overfeeding a Berner puppy will cause the dog to become fat which can place increased strain on joints, ligaments, tendons and bones. Overfeeding can also cause digestive difficulties such as diarrhea.  The best favor any owner can do for their puppy is to manage activity and feeding to allow for as steady as possible growth.

After you first bring your puppy home is the time to set up regular feeding times so your pup is on a schedule. What goes in must come out so housebreaking will be a lot easier with a regularly timed feeding schedule. Most breeders will advise new owners about an appropriate diet for their pup.  Generally a moderate protein and fat level in a dry kibble consisting of no greater than 24-26% protein and 12-15% fat as found in a good quality feed is what we recommend for our pups. Small additions of yogurt, cooked meat or fresh fruits, like banana, apple or pear and vegetables like carrots, broccoli, squash or cooked pumpkin or yams can be offered as well.  Most pups love a variety fresh foods. We usually feed about 15-25% fresh foods and 75-85% quality kibble. Good quality kibble costs somewhere between $35.00-$45.00 for a 40 pound bag. Better quality foods contain human grade ingredients and use vitamins C and E as preservatives; they also usually contain chelated minerals which are more readily usable from a nutritional standpoint. Lesser quality foods are no bargain as most are full of fillers which leads to BIG and often more frequent stools. Poorer quality foods do not contain the quality ingredients that will optimize development of bones and muscles. Poorer foods can also contain additives and chemical preservatives which are not desirable.

Pups want to play and many can play quite hard. Manage your puppy's play schedule so activities and exercise will occur about 2 hours after mealtime - to avoid bloat or gastric torsion.

Puppies need lots of one on one attention during their early lives. Bernese puppies are usually very willing to accept human direction. During the first weeks you have your pup bonding and establishing routines begin. You will need to pay very close attention to your puppy while she is small to see that she does not get into mischief or get into a situation where she could get hurt. Young puppies have no ability to anticipate the results of their actions so owners must be constantly vigilant to ensure the pup's safety. Take your pup out regularly to relieve herself and begin to introduce the crate if you plan to use one. Pups of this age are still babies. They love to chew and will chew on furniture, shoes, children's toys, electric cords and almost anything they find-including people. The best course is to distract the pup from chewing on undesirable objects by offering a chew toy or a bone instead. You can't effectively deal with a pup's chewing by scolding - just accept that pups will chew and give them something appropriate to chew on.

Puppies are notorious for eating inappropriate things like dishtowels, socks, string or soft toys. Some dogs will eat these things and they will pass through their system a day or several days later. If you find that an object is missing and your dog does not want to eat, has thrown up or seems to be in any kind of digestive distress, the object is probably in your dog. If your dog is uncomfortable she may need to have the object surgically removed before it causes damage to the stomach and intestines. Some dogs play chase with objects they have stolen and some will gulp them down. An owner chasing down their dog with an object the owner doesn't want her to have is a big game for many pups. By chasing you encourage that game to continue. Instead, get another acceptable toy or treat and try to get your pup to give up his object for yours by offering to play your game with your super fun toy. Most dogs just want their owner's attention and will readily change gears to get it.

At 10-16 weeks

Puppies continue to grow. Usually Bernese pups at this age bracket weight somewhere in the range of 24- 45 pounds. Often puppies that were shorter on leg at an earlier age  begin to put on length of leg.  Pups can begin to be housetrained, but will not be reliable about asking to go outside to eliminate. Early socialization is a must for Bernese. The first puppy socialization class can be started during this time frame.

Pups of this age are looking for direction, and they need it. Pay attention! Do not allow bad habits such as chewing or soiling in the house to develop because you aren't able to watch your puppy. If you can not watch your pup because you are occupied with chores or other activities, try placing the pup in a crate  with a bone or a Kong stuffed with a small amount of cheese or other toy in a cool quiet part of your home. A quiet gated room that has been "puppy proofed" will also work. But remember that pups should not be left alone or confined for long hours as they need to relieve themselves frequently and they need your attention to remain happy and well adjusted.

Young puppies are like sponges and absorb new experiences eagerly. They are open to learning much like human children. Positive experiences and gentle guidance during the first few months are keystones to having a dog that is confident and well mannered. Pups of this age are ready for you to start to train the basics (sit, stay, come and down.) The key to successful training is getting your pup's attention focused on you. Once you have your dog's attention it is your job to get your dog to understand what you are asking him to do. Make time for several 3 minute ,short, happy training sessions, and always end each mini training session on a positive note with your dog succeeding. Build confidence by rewarding all positive and acceptable behavior with praise. Give your dog ample opportunities to please you by offering her praise or a small food treat reward when she follows your commands to sit or when she comes to you when called or for fetching a toy or for just being still and attentive when you hold her. Do not expect that a puppy will always reliably follow commands. But even if your pup doesn't quite get it right the first time, plan on gently guiding your pup to do as you ask. Consistently follow up on enforcing the commands you are teaching. Long training sessions tend to be boring and can be ineffective since puppies have fairly limited attention spans. Qualified trainers can help an owner to understand how to be more effective in teaching a dog, not to mention that training classes are great places to socialize your puppy.

With going to class - comes car rides. A tip for safely riding with your pup in your car is - place her in a crate while traveling. Never put a dog in the back of an uncovered pickup truck or expect a dog to remain safely in the car when windows are rolled down. Always have a collar and leash on your dog before you open the car door so that you can maintain physical control of your dog while she is exiting your vehicle. Teach the command sit and stay when car doors are opened so that you don't have a dog barreling out of your car uncontrolled. Do not allow your young pup to jump down from high cars seats without assistance as injury to her front end may occur. Cars heat up very quickly in temperatures over 60 degrees so never leave your dog unattended in a car.

Also going to class can present some concerns. There are good trainers and not so good trainers. Watch how the instructor in your class works with people and other dogs. If you feel that your dog is very sensitive or shy you may not want to turn over your dog to the instructor for a demonstration, especially if the trainer seems loud or hard handed with the other dogs. If you don't like the class you are in try another training facility or trainer. Usually trainers that use positive training methods will be very sensitive when handling other people's dogs and will only use encouragement and body language to teach dogs.

Just handling a pup, examining or brushing teeth, feeling legs and feet, touching rear quarters and testicles are invaluable to teaching a dog to be comfortable with human touches. Trimming nails, bathing and brushing are part of training that should be practiced. Do not over bath and dry out skin and coat - a tepid bath with a mild dog shampoo every 3-4 weeks, or as needed to keep the coat clean is correct care. Pups usually have to relieve themselves right after the excitement of a bath or brushing so plan on making a trip outside. If you have given a bath in a cold weather climate, please remember that pups can chill easily so make sure the pup is fully dried before allowing her to spend any extended time outside . 

Special tips for this age

There is nothing like a 100+ pound Berner in a hurry to get through a door! All things in their path are subject to bulldozing, including people or your children. Not to mention the fact that doorways to the outside may lead to a dog bolting from its owner and finding its way to busy streets. So start your pup on the right track navigating through doorways before the dog reaches 100 pounds or more. Two especially important commands to teach are sit and stay. Use and enforce the command sit and stay when doors are opened to enter or leave the house. This will prevent a puppy from developing the bad habit of crashing through open doorways. Remember to teach children about puppies and doors, so a child will not accidentally release a puppy to the outside.

At 4 to six months 

Puppies have begun to lose their milk teeth and are putting in adult teeth. Chewing or mouthing may become more intense when puppies lose their teeth. Also eruption of teeth may cause discomfort if gums are tender resulting in lack of interest in food . Soaking food in water to soften it may help. Also many puppies are beginning to lose their puppy coats. Don't be surprised to see lots of fuzz in the brush when grooming. You will know your pup is changing over to an adult coat when you see a strip of very shiny coarser looking black coat running down the center of your puppy's back. Fuzz will remain around the ears. The skull will begin to elongate which combined with wildly fuzzy ears gives pups of this age a somewhat comical appearance. Some owners like to trim up ear fuzz with scissors or hand strip it out. Pups at this age usually weigh around 45- 75 pounds.

Sometimes a puppy's growth can begin to become a bit uneven with the rear quarters appearing higher for a week and then the front quarters growing to catch up. This uneven growing may extend to 12 months of age or beyond depending on how individuals or a given family of dogs develops. Uneven growth spurts are not in and of themselves a cause for concern. Dogs can appear a bit uncoordinated during growth spurts.

You may want to give your dog a booster vaccine for distemper and parvo or a combination vaccine after 16 weeks of age. You will also need to get the pup her first rabies vaccine. We suggest that you schedule 2 visits and do not give both vaccines at the same time. Schedule vaccine appointments several weeks apart. Vaccines can protect dogs from serious illnesses by stimulating the dog's own system to produce antibodies that will protect her from diseases if she is exposed to them. But vaccines given too frequently or too many at a time can create problems in some dog's immune systems. While you should rely on your vet for vaccine administration and advice based on conditions in your area, some vets may tend towards giving more vaccines than are necessary. Titer testing is a good option for testing whether a dog has sufficient antibodies present. Titer testing is an alternative method of understanding and managing the immunity status of your dog so that the dog can be given appropriate vaccines as needed.

Special tips for this age

Pups at around six months can usually be cut back to 2 meals per day. Some pups may start to refuse to eat at one meal or don't finish meals over the course of several days to a couple of weeks which is a good time to switch to twice a day feeding. Evidence that your dog may be getting a bit too much food is when your dog is rolling when she walks or if you are unable to feel ribs through thick flesh. Many dogs in this breed roll from side to side when they walk because of an imbalance in shoulder and rear quarter's angulation. Many pups have loose skin at this age . Neither of these should be confused with an overweight pup. Feed less food at each meal or cut down a bit on the food reward treats to bring a slightly overweight pup back to optimal weight which is when a bit of firm flesh covers the ribs and the dog feels firm not bony . We have observed in some dogs that the addition of a spoon of yogurt or cottage cheese to meals may bring a growing pup back up on its feet if pasterns start to get a bit loose or weak during heavy growth phases. Supplementation with calcium is not advisable.

Pups are still very tender at this age and are yet getting a good bit of size and energy to burn. So be careful and don't let your pup become too rambunctious as injury can easily occur.

The period from six to eight months

This age bracket can be disconcerting to owners who watch as their beautiful compact fuzzy pup is beginning to grow up, all legs and with an adult coat just barely coming in. Adult height is usually not fully reached until 18- 24 months; but by 8 months most dogs have attained a substantial portion of their height. Often, in dog of this age ,the chest has not dropped and body may appear slight. Once heavily boned legs appear to have lost their substance. And the pudgy cute face has gotten longer and may appear narrow or snipey in the muzzle. Range of weight is between 6-8 months is typically around 55- 85 pounds. Larger males may weigh more.

Pups are now gaining a sense of how their world works. They understand routines. Training is paying off and puppies of this age are able to somewhat reliably follow commands, often with great exuberance! Stay and come commands especially need reinforcement as pups are easily distracted by things that interest them - despite the fact they may well understand what is being asked of them. By this time most Berners have figured out how to get their owners attention. All of their cuteness and puppy antics can be quite delightful and amusing. But remember to ask yourself whether behaviors that are cute now will be cute when your dog weighs 40-50 more pounds. Dogs of this age are prone to jumping up on their owners. Turn away from the dog so he slides off and do not encourage your dog to engage in this sort of greeting. 

Special considerations for this age -Lameness

Six-eight months is a critical age bracket wherein orthopedic conditions may become evident. Some dogs may show symptoms at 4 or 5 months. There are a wide variety of orthopedic conditions that cause problems for growing dogs. Panosteitis (inflammation of the long bones in the legs), elbow dysplasia, hip dysplasia or OCD can cause a puppy to limp.

If a dog does not want to bear any weight on a leg or is in pain it is probably best to see a vet promptly as the dog may have a serious injury. Swelling or skin discoloration around joints should be checked out by a vet as well. Intermittent limping that continues for longer than a few days should be checked out by a vet qualified to evaluate orthopedic concerns to determine the underlying cause. Unfortunately, causes for lameness in young pups may not be so easily diagnosed. Soft tissue injuries such as sprains or ligament or muscle strains can cause a dog to limp and may take days, weeks or even months to resolve. Not only that, but limping, no matter what the underlying cause, may resolve on its own depending on the dog, on management and on the nature and severity of the underlying problem. Radiographs may not reveal elbow joint problems caused by a fragmented coronoid process in a six or 8 month old Bernese . Countless radiographs taken of lame young Berners have resulted in 'no finding' regarding elbow joint conformation only to have the same dogs' radiographs done and re-evaluated at age two and found to exhibit Grade 1 (mild) elbow dysplasia. Panosteitis can cause a dog to be intermittently lame for months. Dogs have different thresholds for pain just like people. Babying a dog in pain may reinforce the dog to use even minor pain to gain attention from a sympathetic owner. 

The only advice that we give if a puppy is lame is always check first with the dog's breeder for input. Use common sense when reacting to lameness in young dogs. Most dogs will self limit their activity level if they are uncomfortable. A dog that wants to continue to play and limps a bit afterwards may not be the most appealing to look at and confinement may or may not resolve the problem. Pups exhibiting mild or intermittent lameness may require an owner to manage the pup's activity level, leash walk the dog or confine the dog to crate rest. Curtailing jumping and wild cavorting in a lame pup is advisable. Sometimes resting a limping dog will help correct lameness and sometimes moderate exercise will help. Every dog is different, so figuring out what management is best for any given dog will vary widely.

 Many owners and some veterinarians want to "fix" a dog's limping problem immediately. Limping problems can take time to resolve. Have patience. Lameness can be medically managed with herbal or homeopathic remedies or with combinations of western medicine therapies and alternative medical therapies. Get help and advice from a qualified homeopath or someone with experience using alternative therapies such as herbs and dietary supplements. These additives can be as powerful as using pharmaceutical drugs and they can be misused or be dangerous especially if used in combination with drugs.

 Use of surgical measures to correct some limping problems can be harder on the dog than the problem itself. Choosing surgical correction for orthopedic problems is very serious step that usually entails weeks or months of rehabilitation. Surgical correction of some orthopedic conditions has quite variable outcomes for the dog. So, make sure to gain a full understanding of the extent of the dog's problem, the risks and benefits of the orthopedic surgical procedure . Be very clear about the competency and track record of the veterinarian performing orthopedic surgery before jumping in. ALWAYS consult with the breeder before deciding how to manage a limping puppy. Not sure about what a vet has told you- get a second opinion!

Spaying and Neutering

You may wish to spay or neuter your dog at this time if you are not planning on using your dog to produce pups. Spaying/neutering require the use of anesthetic. Some Berners have had serious anesthetic reactions. Politely ask the vet doing the spay or neuter surgery to use a minimalist approach to use of anesthetic. Vets can always put more anesthetic on board if needed, but they can not take back what they initially put into your dog. Reminding your vet that some Berners have not needed dosage amounts that correspond with their weight and that some Bernese have died from anesthetic reactions is something you need to bring to the vet's attention. A pre-anesthetic panel can be done by your vet to make sure your dog clots blood properly and liver and kidney function are adequate.  With Berners this type of testing is a good idea since there are bleeding disorders and kidney or liver problems found in some individuals in the breed.

At Eight months to 1 year:

Dogs are not physically mature at the 8-12 month time bracket. The family of dogs a given pup comes from will have a significant bearing on whether the dog appears physically mature or is still quite a gangly teenager by a year of age. A few pups have evened out growth wise by this age. Typically dogs between 8-12 months of age weigh around 70 - 110 pounds. By this time a  good idea of the finished size of a Berner can be predicted. Dogs that weigh 100 pounds at a year may gain another 10- 20 pounds of bulk over the next 2 years. A 110 pound dog might finish out at 130 pounds. Females that weight 70 pounds will also likely put on another 10-15 pounds of weight. A female weighing 85 pounds might finish at around 100 pounds.

Young dogs rarely carry as much coat as their mature counterparts. Coats on both males and females usually continue to lengthen and leg feathers are just beginning to grow on yearling BMDs. By the time a Bernese reaches age three, bib feathering and density and length of coat are coming along nicely.

Special concerns

Bernese Mountain Dogs are becoming young adults at around a year. Hormones come into play during this time frame. The puppy that was so obedient and tractable may seem to have forgotten everything that has been learned. Females may become skittish and nervous prior to their first heat cycle, which typically occurs between 10-14 months. Hormones can be quite a disruptive force in a dog's life. It is especially important to offer dogs firm direction and guidance during these months. Now is the time to reinforce everything that has been learned. Build confidence in dogs through encouragement and praise when their behavior is to your liking. Distract intact males with a game of catch or a walk if they become inappropriately amorous or overtly sexual.

With the Bernese size ,often owners expect a yearling to act like a fully matured dog. Size is not a good indicator of physical or mental maturity. Pups of this age that have been offered consistent guidance, have been socialized and have been taught to go outside to eliminate should know how to follow commands with reasonable consistency. A yearling Bernese should be housetrained; but that does not mean accidents can't happen. Yearling Berners are still puppies and will behave a such. So don't expect more than the maturity of your pup at a year of age allows. Pups of this age will often still chew, will rip up magazines or newspapers or clothes and shoes and will steal food if it is left in an area they can reach if their owners give them the freedom to do so.

At this time you will want to consider getting your dog a booster vaccine for parvo virus and distemper as well as the booster for rabies. The same protocol should apply as mentioned before. Do not give vaccines together– schedule 2 vet appointments about a  month apart.

Conclusion

The Swiss saying "Three years a puppy, three years a good dog, three years an old dog and the rest is a gift" is quite an accurate description of the Bernese Mountain Dog. Bernese Mountain Dogs will continue to lay down bone, put on width and substance, their heads will continue to broaden well into the second and third year of life. Young dogs are rarely as together structurally, appearance or behavior wise as mature three or four year olds. By the time individual dogs in this breed reach 5-7 they are glorious in coat; their structure is set; they should be calm and self assured; they are in full body and are at the prime of life.

One of the saddest things we have seen over our years in this breed is dogs who have not been trained by their owners. Too many dogs end up in shelters or rescue because an owner failed in their attempts to train their dog. There are so many quality books and videos available to give owners the tools to deal with problems in dog management. Ian Dunbar has a wonderful series of books or videos that deal with puppy training and common behavioral problems owners run into when raising pups. Authors like Patricia McConnell and the Monks of New Skete have put out easy to read books that can help almost anyone figure out how to teach their dog how to be well behaved. The Berner-L at Berner-L Service Center is a mailing list with over Berner people with experience owning and training Bernese; and anyone can join and ask a question or for help with a problem. Likely someone can help. And the dog's breeder can be an invaluable source for information and tips on how to care for your dog. Please pick up the and let the breeder know if you have a problem with or a question about your dog.  For your dog's sake, if you are not satisfied with your dog or her behavior, reach out for help. It is there. Your dog is counting on you.

Patience is the key to gaining a full appreciation for the Bernese Mountain Dog.  Enjoy every phase your puppy lives through and appreciate each day you are blessed to share with your dog. Berner puppy hood is a precious time that passes all too quickly.

For being there to talk dogs with me through the years, thanks Ruth .

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