Getting ready to drop some $$ on my first set of wood turning tools and I've got everything figured out except my scraper. I'm primarily interested in turning bowls and could use some advice on which one of these three I should get.

In order, the below pictures are:

1) Hurricane M2 Cryo 1" (x3/8") Heavy Duty Bowl Finishing Scraper....$114
2) Hurricane M42 Cryo 3/4" Bowl Finishing Scraper .......................................$82
3) Hurricane M2 Cryo 1" Round Nose Scraper ....................................................$76

At first I was thinking of getting the cheaper 1" round nose and grind / sharpen so that it has the profile of a bowl scraper. Is it ok to do this, or should I go for one of the other tools that are actual bowl scrapers? And if so, what's the advantage / functionality of the heavy duty scraper vs. the smaller 3/4" one?



Brad - everyone will have their opinion, but........I turn a lot of bowls and 95% of the time use a traditional 5/8" bowl gouge only. My bowl gouges have 55-60 degree bevels which generally gets it done for me. I will occasionally use a negative rake scraper (pretty heavy duty, not a lightweight) for some interior tear-out related issues, but it's rare. On those somewhat rare occasions where I go deeper than the width of the bowl, I have a "bottom-feeder" bowl gouge ground to about 85 degrees from an old traditional ground gouge someone gave me. On the exteriors of bowls, after shaping, I mostly shear-cut (tool handle down low and flute turned toward the bowl) with my bowl gouge and use the same bowl gouge as a scraper as needed. So, my 2-cents, use a bowl gouge (mostly) and a negative-rake scraper if necessary. Al Hockenbery, and a few other experienced turners that frequent this forum, probably have good videos showing how you turn the whole bowl with a traditional ground bowl gouge. I invested in the Glenn Lucas negative rake scraper (woodturnerscatalog.com) a few months ago, and have not looked back. With a proper burr burnished on the edge, it is a joy to use and does a great and safe job of shaving off finishing cuts in the inside of bowls. I don’t know if I’ve gotten much use out of my traditional (single-bevel) scrapers on bowls since I made the purchase. One exception is a homemade scraper I made from a concrete demolition tool I found on the side of the road several years ago. It is a one inch steel rod about 30” long . Probably weighs ten pounds. The end is flattened spoon shape and I ground a scraping edge on it. It’s great for heavy stock removal from the inside of rough bowls.

Getting ready to drop some $$ on my first set of wood turning tools and I've got everything figured out except my scraper. I'm primarily interested in turning bowls and could use some advice on which one of these three I should get.

In order, the below pictures are:

1) Hurricane M2 Cryo 1" (x3/8") Heavy Duty Bowl Finishing Scraper....$114
2) Hurricane M42 Cryo 3/4" Bowl Finishing Scraper .......................................$82
3) Hurricane M2 Cryo 1" Round Nose Scraper ....................................................$76

At first I was thinking of getting the cheaper 1" round nose and grind / sharpen so that it has the profile of a bowl scraper. Is it ok to do this, or should I go for one of the other tools that are actual bowl scrapers? And if so, what's the advantage / functionality of the heavy duty scraper vs. the smaller 3/4" one?

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Get a negative rack scraper, the huge ones like 1 1/2 aren’t much better than the 1 inch ones I find, actually I like the 1 inch better, less area to catch When doing a fine scrape to clean up marks. I purchased a number of scrapers 20yrs ago when I started turning. Scraped a few bowls back then... Now, as others have said, I seldom reach for a scraper. I do need to eventually invest in a negative rake one though. The scraper I use most often is a 1/4" x 1" Thompson slightly rounded that I clean up plates and platters with, otherwise most of them just gather dust for months on end until I use them for a few minutes on a particular issue. Of the couple dozen (or more) tools I have the 5/8" bowl gouge easily sees the most use. A small skew sees use on every bowl to make the tenon for my chuck, and usually a 3/8" bowl gouge, or a 3/8" detail gouge to clean off the bottom tenon when the bowl is completed. With that said, I wouldn't part with the others I have and continually think about getting more What I don't get is, why would one invest in a negative rake scraper, if they already have a standard single-bevel (assuming the shape is how you want it to be, or could be ground to the shape you want) , all one would need to do, it seems, is take your single bevel scraper and grind a new bevel on the top, then grind your bevel again to raise a burr (or even, hone and raise a burr with a burnishing tool?) , voila, you have a negative rake scraper? Myself, I recently got a pair of PSI bowl scrapers (1" and 1-1/2" ) and while I have little practice in with them as yet, I was considering that I could just grind a negative rake into one or both, (but first I want to see if I can refine the shape I currently have on them, which does not "quite" fit the transitions I end up with - most of my difficulty now is on bowl bottoms just after the transition, invariably I seem to get a "ridge" in that area... )

…why would one invest in a negative rake scraper, if they already have a standard single-bevel (assuming the shape is how you want it to be, or could be ground to the shape you want) , all one would need to do, it seems, is take your single bevel scraper and grind a new bevel on the top, then grind your bevel again to raise a burr (or even, hone and raise a burr with a burnishing tool?)..,

Because, of course, I don’t want to sacrifice one of the 5 rarely used scrapers I already have…you can *always* use just one more tool IF you're just starting out, I would not spend the extra money for cryo steel. Get a basic M2 scraper in the size you think you want and put the shape on it you think you want. Then, when you realize it's not quite right, you can change the shape until you get what actually works for you. And not worry about how much expensive steel you're grinding off in the process. Think you actually want a negative rake scraper? Fine, off you go to the grinder and turn your inexpensive scraper into a negative rake. After 5 or 8 years, when you're getting pretty good at this, and your cheap scraper is getting kinda short, buy that fancy steel. At that point, you'll be able to appreciate the longer lasting edge. Just my 2 cents.

What I don't get is, why would one invest in a negative rake scraper, if they already have a standard single-bevel (assuming the shape is how you want it to be, or could be ground to the shape you want) , all one would need to do, it seems, is take your single bevel scraper and grind a new bevel on the top, then grind your bevel again to raise a burr (or even, hone and raise a burr with a burnishing tool?) , voila, you have a negative rake scraper? Myself, I recently got a pair of PSI bowl scrapers (1" and 1-1/2" ) and while I have little practice in with them as yet, I was considering that I could just grind a negative rake into one or both, (but first I want to see if I can refine the shape I currently have on them, which does not "quite" fit the transitions I end up with - most of my difficulty now is on bowl bottoms just after the transition, invariably I seem to get a "ridge" in that area... )

You can pretty easily make a double bevel scraper (NRS) from a single bevel, but you probably don't want to go back and forth.

If you take a 70* single and add a 10* top bevel you will get an NRS, but it will be blunter with an included angle of 80* . To get back to a 70* included angle you'll have to grind the bottom bevel to 60* loosing a bit of metal in the process.

Now if you change your mind and want to go back to single bevel you not only have to return the bottom bevel to 70*, but you have to grind away all of that shallow 10* bevel on the top, and that is a lot of metal. Thanks so much everybody for your advice, I always read word. I'd like to address everyone individually but I find I risk having my follow up questions disappear in the fray when I do.

I've had the suggestion that if I am considering buying the more expensive scraper that I might think about going with the Easy Wood Tools Finisher (carbide) instead. I understand the wisdom in the advice to get cheap tools first then see which ones I like/use invest in more expensive tools, but I'm a measure twice, cut once kind of guy so I tend to ask a bunch of questions. Any opinions on the Finisher vs. 3/8" NR scraper? You can get a Thompson 3/4" scraper for $75 where the EWT is well over a hundred. With my CBN wheels I will never use all of my Thompson 3/4" scraper (and I wouldn't use it all if I was still using stone wheels). You know from demos you hear the pros saying that the scraper needs the burr to cut well and that the burr is gone in a few seconds but then you watch and he uses the scraper for minutes and if you watch closely if he needs it again he just picks it up again and uses it without resharpening. I don't use my 3/4" Thompson very often but I cannot remember the last time I sharpened it and it still does exactly what I need it to do. I have never felt the need to get an EWT tool and I would not take one if it were free as my Thompson does the same job. The only carbide I use regularly are the Hunter carbides. Well, as a self proclaimed scraper psycho, I think the biggest appeal of the carbide scrapers, other than the Hunter tools which are cupped and designed to slice, is that they are small scrapers, which makes them easier to handle, especially for beginners. I do not like big wide thick scrapers. As I say in my Scary Scrapers video, I don't need anything over 1 inch wide and 5/16 thick.

As for cutting with and without burrs, this does present a puzzle. Most of the time, for scraping cuts, especially heavy ones, you want a burr. I was floored when I saw Nick Stagg do a demo in Salem, OR where he finish cut a hard maple lamp base that was side grain/bowl grain orientation, with a scraper. He honed off the burr and bevel. It left a very smooth surface. That type of edge does work in harder and more dense woods. It does not work in softer woods.

No idea how the carbide NRS works, or maybe I can't explain why it cuts. In theory, it shouldn't because the NRS needs a burr to cut. Apparently, it does work. A sharp edge does cut.

robo hippy

So you’ve decided you want to have some chirping company. Hurrah!

For more information, please visit our website.

You’re not alone. Birding has become one of the most popular hobbies in North America, second only to gardening. 57 million households have taken up bird-feeding as a hobby. In fact,  February has been named National Bird-Feeding Month by congressional decree.

And by this decree, ladies and gents, we shall show you how to attract the little chirpers to your backyard. Whether in an apartment or condo or a house with a backyard, we’ll show you step by step how enter to the world of bird feeding. 

Where do we start?

Getting to know the birds around you

Before you choose your bird feeder, get to know the birds that are in your backyard or neighbourhood. According to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, there are 15 common types of bird in North America; Chickadees, Northern Cardinals and Hummingbirds being the most popular with bird lovers. Check them out and get to know your natural neighbors.

Bird Identification.

Do you keep seeing the same bird every day and yet have no idea what it's called? Check out aguide to help you identify it. So satisfying to know who you're sharing your coffee break with!

Four important pieces of advice to consider before buying a feeder.

Whichever decision you make, these four pieces of advice are key before you begin.

1. Safety from predators: The location and type of bird feeder should prevent squirrels, cats and other predators from harming our feathery visitors.

2. Winter proof: Make sure the bird feeder is sturdy enough to survive the cold seasons.

3. Ease of use: Cleanliness is key. Make sure the feeders you choose are easy to hang andeasy to clean.

4. Patience! It takes time for these (rightfully) suspicious flyers to trust you. They need time to get to know you, to be sure you’re not there to harm them but are merely trying to pamper them with yummy seeds and delicious nectar.

Once you understand the fab four, you’ll realise why it’s worth having a bird feeder: this is an easy and low budget hobby that brings oodles of joy.

Now to the brass tacks: Which of these feeders are right for you?

• Love chickadees, titmice and cardinals right at your window? Check out: Window feeders.

• Prefer jays and sparrows? Check out: Tray feeders.

• Love hummingbirds and orioles? Check out Nectar feeders

• Maybe orioles and tanagers? Check out Fruit feeders.

• Fan of woodpeckers and nuthatches? Check out Suet feeders.

• Like finches and chickadees? Check out: Tube feeders.

• Into goldfinches and siskins? Check out Thistle/Nyjer feeders.

• Fancy cardinals and grosbeaks? Check out: Hopper feeders.

• Love magpies and nuthatches? Check out Peanut feeders.

WINDOW FEEDERS 

Window feeders are small plastic boxes (or platforms) that attach to the window by suction.

The beautiful thing about these type of feeders is that they keep birds safe. Not only from predators but also from flying into your window and harming themselves. The window feeders are not only a source of nutrition - but also a signal for them to slow down and avoid collision.

Of course the greatest benefit of a window feeder is that it attracts your feathered friends up close and personal. It takes a while for them to get used to you and realise that you’re “legit” and a trustworthy food source. But once they do - they practically become family members. And then the fun begins!

Nature at your fingertips!

If you move slowly enough, you can walk right up to your window and observe your pecking visitor in action, see how he moves about, see from close-up the intricate shades of his feathers, the color of his eyes. Nature at its best at your fingertips.

Gossip of the day!

Once the birds become regulars, you can have family updates of which birds are fighting, who had chicks, which mating songs they are singing today. Children and grandchildren can get really excited when a red cardinal appears or when certain birds return from migration.

Pets have pets?

Other family members who can enjoy the fun? Your pet! Cats and dogs love staring at your frequent-flyers for hours! I like imagining what my cat is thinking as he stares at the bird feeder right in front of him, languidly pawing at the window.

This is a great choice for all bird lovers - and especially apartment/condo owners or for those have a serious squirrel problem.

Tips for window feeders

1. Size matters: Window feeders come in all sizes and shapes. The smaller the size, the smaller the birds. If you want to attract larger birds such as bluebirds, cardinals and goldfinches, get a window feeder compatible with their size.

2. Cleanliness: As the birds eat the seeds, so do they make a mess, especially when eating seeds with husks which land up below the bird-feeder and must be removed. It is important to change and clean the feeder almost every day. Luckily, this is one of the easiest window feeders to clean!

3. Suction matters! Apart from the durable plastic of the bird feeder, suction is an important consideration when using a window feeder. Having clean windows is key for successful suction to work. Click here for more tips on how to attach the suction cups to your window properly. 

4. Warning: Some companies or bloggers recommend getting a one-way mirrored film for the feeder, claiming that the birds won’t see you approaching and fly away since they can only see their reflection. This actually produces the opposite effect. It can cause territorial males to attack their own reflection and result in serious injury...

5. Attract them to you! To help the birds find this new source of nutrition, try giving them their favourite treats: peanuts, seeds and fat balls. Bright seeds can attract them even more!  If you have a garden, try to take any other food source away so the birds will focus on the window feeder.  

All in all:

It’s no surprise that window feeders are the leading choice when it comes to choosing bird feeders. It’s easy to set up, easy to clean, and will hold up forever.

Who will “come for dinner?” It all depends on the size, colour and type of food! 

TRAY FEEDERS

Another great option to attract as many types of birds as possible is the tray feeder.  

This is the simplest type. Any seeds/fruit/peanuts/shell worms/dried fruit/small suet nuggets, whatever you have can be placed on it. Edged at the rim, it prevents the seeds from falling. You can hang it, place it on anything or just on the ground. They are easy to mount and easy to clean!

And because of this - come one come all. In the bird world, we call this a “non-exclusive” feeder - because there are no intricate portals or holes, any bird can feed from this tray, so you basically get the greatest variety of species. 

Trays feeders are at the top of the list for cardinals! Offer them sunflower or safflower seeds and they’ll be there! 

Tips for Tray Feeders:

1. It's raining it's pouring! Because these feeders have no cover, they are not protected against rain and snow. Wet seeds can develop fungus and become mouldy which can endanger our little flyers - so a good option is to get a feeder which will allow the water to drip through.

2. The importance of cleanliness. Lack of cover also means droppings. Give your feeder a good cleaning! Empty the tray from time to time, scraping out leftovers and washing it well.

3. Beware predators! If you have squirrels or chipmunks in your backyard- this tray is manna from heaven! If this is the case, try hanging the trays up or use a squirrel baffle.

4. No place to hang a feeder? No problem! If you do choose to put the feeder on the ground, make sure the ground is bare or that the lawn is mowed so the birds can see if a cat is lying in wait and planning an attack.

Birds that are attracted to tray feeders… well, nearly (but not all) of the 98 species in north America! This includes:

Nectar feeders

Buzz buzz buzz…. The hummingbirds are abuzz!

The purpose of this delightful option is to attract hummingbirds! Such a unique bird that is just heavenly to watch, it is no surprise many buy this type of feeder!

Because of its popularity, some companies go all out and design super fancy nectar feeders - but as per the rule of the fab-four above, they do not always do the job!

Hummingbird feeders are actually quite simple: a plastic dish with a top or a bottle-type tube. Usually in red because Hummingbirds looove that colour.

What is nectar, and why use it? 

Nectar is basically sugar dissolved in water. Birds have a high metabolic rate, and their activities consume many calories -  which is why the high rates of sugar in the nectar is essential for them. Of course they need other caloric intake as well, but for them these feeders serve as another way to get the sugar they would sip from a flower's nectar. Nectar feeders are a blessing to them, especially in winter, where hummingbirds' survival could depend on these little sugary ports that give them a dose of energy and possibly save their lives. But use plain white sugar only, no honey or artificial sweeteners..  

With competitive price and timely delivery, Jiafu sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

Tips for nectar feeders:

1. Refresh! Nectar goes bad very fast, especially during the warm weather, so it's good to refresh the sugar water and refuel the feeder frequently.

2. BYOB! A big mistake is to colour the nectar red. Don’t do this as food coloring is harmful to our little hummers. You can easily make your own nectar!  Easy and simple, no 4 course meals here.

3. No spilling. When choosing this type of feeder, make sure the openings are raised well above the level of the sugar water, so leaks will be prevented.

4. Bees. Bees can be attracted sugar water spills. And because they carry pollen they can contribute to the mess… Consider hummingbird feeders with red ports rather than yellow - as bees are attracted to that color. 

5. Plant red flowers! Red is the hummer’s favourite so why not add a splash of it in your backyard? Hummingbirds will check out anything red. If you leave a red hat on your backyard chair, it will be fully explored! Any tubular shaped flower will be heaven for the little flyer and a good way for him to discover your feeder.

Nectar feeders can also attract a myriad of other birds, such as finches, chickadees and sparrows for starters.

They like to just perch and check out the scenery. Which is why it could be a bonus to have another type of feeder nearby to accommodate these little visitors looking for a bite. For instance, the next feeder up: the oriole feeder. 

FRUIT FEEDERS

And now for something completely orange: Orioles!

A splash of orange, black and yellow is a welcome addition to our gardens. Orioles love bird feeders and feel most at home near them. Admiring these fiery birds is as satisfying as listening to their songs.

What they love to eat isn’t messy seeds that cause unwanted weeds - rather: their menu includes nectar, fruit and jelly! In addition, they also eat insects, which is another plus: pest control!

There are customised feeders for these little orange ones. They are structured to feed orioles alone and save them competition with the rest of the flyers.

3 musts for oriole feeders:

1. Oriole feeders should have large holes for their large beaks, as well as small dishes nearby for jelly or mealworms (yum…?)

2. There should be spikes for holding orange or apple halves. You can also feed them with suet cakes.

3. Orioles love the color orange! Most feeders have orange bases and ports. No need to feed them “orange” nectar - as the dye can cause them harm.

Smooth grape-jelly is a fine meal for an oriole! They also eat other fruit jams, but grape jelly seems to be their absolute favorite. Make sure it’s not “diet” jelly or contains any sugar substitutes such as Aspartame. Birds need a full sugar intake to get the energy they need.

Which means that grape jelly must be offered in small quantities so that orioles will also look for protein. Crushed grapes can also be an option - as well as suet.

Orioles might try to drink the nectar from hummingbird feeders, even though the ports are too small for their larger beaks! If you know hummingbird feeders, you will see that they have a tough time pecking into their small ports. Oriole feeders are a great solution, and leaving orange halves in the garden can do the trick.

Tips for oriole feeders: 

1. Tickle me orange! If you don't have a feeder with an orange top, try placing an orange ribbon around a tree or a post, so as they glide over your garden and see their favourite color, they will realise that something delicious is waiting for them. And if there’s grape jelly? Well, you've just made a friend for life!

2. Whether the weather! It's best for Oriole feeders to be in place before the spring. Orioles need to know where their food sources are coming from before the season starts - and if they don’t see yours they may not fly over your house until the following season! Hey, if you were after a marathon of migration, you’d need water and food as soon as possible too! You can even offer them sugar dissolved in water, (4:1) this could be a great beginning of a wonderful relationship.

3. Sugar - and then some! As much as grape jelly is a lovely treat for summer, orioles need a little more when it comes to the mating season when they look for protein sources, such as insects. You can help them by placing mealworms in their feeders - or have an extra suet feeder in your garden, which will also do the job!

4. Beware of ants and bees! Oranges and sugary water means ants and bees. If your feeder doesn’t come with an insect guard, consider placing vegetable oil around the port rims. This should keep the ants from "marching one by one."

See the orioles feed in action!

SUET FEEDERS

HOPPER FEEDERS

Another big favourite of the wild birds is the hopper. The birds “hop" on the hopper’s trigger which then releases seeds, an extremely comfortable way for them to eat. These feeders are usually a cone shaped/inverted pyramid - with a roof on top, which is why they are also called House Feeders.

Hoppers excel at protecting the seeds from bad weather. The container is closed, so the seeds are kept clean and sanitary. They are also a really good option for fending off predators as well as preventing bird droppings.

The hopper will hold seeds for days! It’s like a big pantry for birds, come one come all. However, you must invest in its CLEANLINESS. If the seeds get wet, they can develop bacteria and fungus, which can spread disease among the birds. Though they are a little tough to clean, this is truly a beauty in the garden.

Tips for hanging a hopper feeder:

1. Height: Hoppers are usually suspended 5 feet off the ground - (eye level)  or mounted on a pole. Some birds, like Jays, prefer the stability of the pole rather than the hanging kind.  It should ideally be 16 feet away from trees or bushes, so if a hawk is around, the birds will have plenty of time to flee.

2. Beware Squirrels: If squirrels are your regulars, you may need to consider a squirrel baffle.

3. A weight-sensing perch: Any percher weighing more than an average songbird will cause the Hopper feeder to close its portals, leaving only the smaller birds to enjoy the feast undisturbed by their bigger foes.

Bird hoppers attract finches, jays, cardinals, buntings, grosbeaks, sparrows, chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, woodpeckers and blackbirds. A big party. Check out this festive gathering on a gazebo hopper:

PEANUT FEEDERS

Come summer, this is an excellent substitute for suet.

Peanuts are a very good source of nutrition not only for us humans but for birds as well. They are high in fat - which gives them a good amount of calories to get through the day, especially in winter.

Peanuts are a slightly more expensive offering but a favourite among bird feeders as they attract a different variety of birds. For instance, jays can smell peanuts from a 5 mile radius - so if you start putting peanut feeders in your garden, expect the jay to be your new BBF! (best bird forever.)

You can offer whole peanuts, shelled or not. Some birds will eat them as is, and some will crush them with their beaks to bird-bite sizes.

Peanuts feeders are a favorite among bird lovers as it takes longer for the bird to peck and eat the nut. The longer it stays, the longer we get to spend time looking at them and enjoying their company. This could indirectly start to build trust between us bird lovers and our visitors.

Peanut tips:

1. Fresh the mesh!  Peanuts can go bad in a few days - so it’s best to give them the right amount they consume per day, before refilling.

2. Storage: Store the peanuts in a dry area so they don’t go mouldy.

3. Natural only: Avoid salty peanuts or any other processed kind. Natural unroasted peanuts only!

Birds peanut feeders attract: Jays, Woodpeckers, Chickadees, Titmice, Nuthatches, Magpies. Sparrows, House finches and Cardinals. Watch these two fight it out:

Now that you've selected your bird feeder. What next?

Now that you’ve chosen a bird feeder, here are a few tips to consider before setting it up, other than the fab-four:

REMEMBER, PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE As we mentioned in the fab-four, it takes time till these little flyers get used to you. It could take days or even months!

THINK BIG, START SMALL: Since the birds will take their time, try to put out a small amount of food at first, since it can get wet or dry out. Waste not want not. As they start to visit more often, the amount of seed can grow proportionately.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION: Make sure you hang the feeder of your choice where you can clearly can see it and enjoy it from your window!

KEEP IT CLEAN, BOYS AND GIRLS: I can't stress enough how cleanliness is key. Make sure your seeds are fresh and available. Birds need to trust their bird feeder to be full everyday. If they come back to an empty feeder, they will consider this source untrustworthy. Also, if it rains, make sure to change the seeds before they go mouldy which can cause diseases. Avoid bird mould - avoid diseases.

BEWARE WHAT YOU FEED: Buy your seeds from vetted seed sellers, so you're not giving them seeds empty of minerals and calories. Not all kitchen scraps are good for birds: white bread for instance, has no nutrients in it whatsoever.

Also: Processed peanuts should never be offered to birds. That means salted, smoked or seasoned as well as any peanuts  coated with candy or chocolate which can be dangerous for birds. Similarly, no baked goods, not even oatmeal cookies! Cakes, brownies or fudge even with peanuts, should not be offered to our flyers. Let's keep our songbirds safe

WHERE DO YOU HANG THE FEEDER?

An average squirrel can leap up to about 4 feet up in the air, between 8 to 10 feet sideways, and even further when jumping down from above. So try placing your bird feeder over 4 feet high and 10 feet away from anything the squirrel can climb. Another way to keep the  squirrels away is to add hot pepper to your seeds! Click here for more tips how to keep the squirrels away.

STILL NOT CONVINCED? HOW ABOUT JUST WATER?

Even if you end up not placing any bird feeders in your garden, believe it or not, providing water for wild birds is just as important as providing seed. Just like us, birds need hydration and a good bath every day to wash away dirt and parasites.

Want more information on Scraper Feeder(uz,es,vi)? Feel free to contact us.